Bevanwistar

$250 to dispose of your vehicle, $1000 for extra miles you put on the clock and $200 to replace the light bulb and the worn tyres—lease agents constantly nickel-and-dime consumers when their lease runs out.
Here’s a rundown of what can trigger those fees, and some steps to take in self-defense.
Disposition fee: leasing companies charge you if you choose not to buy the vehicle at the end of your lease. This fee is set as compensation for the expenses of selling, or otherwise disposing of the vehicle. It typically includes administrative charges; the dealer’s cost to prepare the car for resale and any other penalties. Make sure this fee is stated clearly in the contract and is agreeable by you before signing on the dotted line. At lease-end, you are left in no position to negotiate as the dealer can apply your refundable security deposit towards this fee.

Excess mileage charges: Almost all leasing companies will charge a premium for each mile over the agreed upon mileage stated in your contract. This penalty can be as high as 25 cents per mile and can add up quickly. To avoid the risk of running thousands of dollars in excess mileage penalties at the end of your lease, always check the “per mile” charges in your contract and be realistic about your mileage before you sign any contract.
If you think the limit is unrealistic given your commutation needs, then negotiate with the dealer to get a higher mileage or contract for additional miles.

Excess tear-and-wear charges: Another potential cost at the end of the lease is any incidental damage done to the car during the lease. This is deemed any excessive damage done to the normal tear and wear of the vehicle.
Notice the use of the terms “deemed”, “excessive” and “normal”. There is no standard formula to define what’s “excessive” and “normal” and it’s up to the leasing company to assess – or deem – the damage and determine what they are going to charge. This leaves you at the mercy of unscrupulous leasing agents who set stringent tear-and-wear standards. Make sure you read the description of these standards, understand them and agree to them.
If your leased vehicle is damaged prior to the end of the lease, you may find it cheaper to repair the damage yourself than pay the excessive charges of the leasing agent. In the event of a dispute over the charges at the end of your lease, get an independent third party to do a professional appraisal detailing the amount required to repair any damaged parts or the amount by which tear-and-wear reduces the value of the vehicle.

Whether you lease a car to get into the latest models or have better purchasing flexibility, getting a good deal is always bound to give you a lift. Use these guidelines to help you spot one:

Check incentives: be on the look-out for factory –subsidized lease deals. Car manufacturers realise that consumers who lease vehicles from them are more likely to be repeat customers than those who simply purchase vehicles. Through their leasing companies, they adjust the residual value and offer low financing charge. Other auto-manufacturers are also starting to give incentives on leasing, called leasing subventions. They offer these subsidies to put slow-selling models on the street, saving you even more money.

Set up a competitive: bidding environment to get the lowest price. If you already have an idea in mind of the make, model and trim level of your desired car, attempt to calculate your own lease payment before you go shopping to avoid paying through the roof. Check online comparison tools or use a lease calculator to check your lease payment based on purchase price.  This gives you greater negotiation leverage as you solicit quotes from various leasing companies.

Make sure you know all the fees involved at the beginning of your lease:
you may have to pay fees for licenses, registration and title. Other fees include acquisition fees, freight fees and local or state taxes. At lease-end, you may have to pay a disposition fee and charges for extra mileage and any excess wear. Be aware that some of these fees – like acquisition and disposition fees – are negotiable.

Know your mileage needs: almost all leases limit the number of miles per year by imposing typically 10 to 20 cents per excess mile over 15,000 miles a year. If you are the kind of high-commuter who puts 40,000 miles a year on his car, then you might end up running thousands of dollars in hefty penalties at the end of your lease. Be smart and negotiate a higher-mileage limit or pad you excess miles at the beginning of your lease to avoid robber tax rates for excess miles.
Almost all leases limit the number of miles per year by imposing fees typically 10 to 20 cents per mile over 15,000 miles per year. If you are the kind of high-commuter who puts a lot miles on his car, then these costs can add up quickly. Negotiate

Include GAP coverage: make sure your lease includes GAP coverage. This covers you in the event of the vehicle getting wrecked, stolen or totalled.
Without GAP insurance, you leave yourself wide open to thousands of dollars in leased obligations. Check if the GAP coverage is included so you don’t pay it twice.

Buy or Lease Car

It’s the classic dilemma that faces every auto-consumer out there: Pay cash upfront or forego the ownership and pay monthly settlements instead? Buy or lease for a new set of wheels?

As is the case with every other common dilemma, there is no slam-dunk answer. Each option has its own benefits and drawbacks, and it all depends on a set of financial and personal considerations.

First, your finances. Affordability is clearly key, and you need to ask the question of how stable is your job and how healthy is your general financial situation. The short-term monthly-cost of leasing is significantly lower than the monthly payments when buying: you only pay for “the portion” of the vehicle’s cost that you use up during the time you drive it. If you have a lot of cash upfront, then you can opt to pay the down payment, sales taxes - in cash or rolled into a loan - and the interest rate determined by your loan company. Buying effectively gives you ownership of the car and that feeling of “free driving” that goes on providing transportation. If, say, you want to get into luxury models but can’t afford the upfront cash of purchasing the vehicle than you’re a good candidate for leasing.
Unlike buying, it gives you the option of not having to fork out the down payment upfront, leaving you to pay a lower money factor that is generally similar to the interest rate on a financing loan. However, these benefits have a price: terminating a lease early or defaulting on your monthly lease payments will result in stiff financial penalties and can ruin your credit.
You need to make sure you carve out the monthly lease payment in your budget for the foreseeable future, at least for the duration of the lease.

Besides the financial aspect, making a buy or lease decision depends on your own particular lifestyle choices and preferences. Think about what the car means to you: are you the sort of person to bond with the car or would you rather have the excitement of something new? If you want to drive a car for more than fives years, negotiate carefully and buy the car you like. If, on the other hand, you don’t like the idea of ownership and prefer to drive a new car every two to three years then you should lease.

Next, factor your transportation needs: How many miles do you drive a year? How properly do you maintain your cars? If you answer is: “I drive 40,000 miles a year and I don’t really care much about my cars as I don’t mind dealing with repair bills”, then you’re probably better off buying. Leasing is based on the assumption of limited-mileage, usually no more than 12,000 to 15,000 miles a year, and wear-and-tear considerations. Unless you can keep within the prescribed mileage limits and keep the car in a good condition at the end of your lease, you might incur hefty end-of-lease costs.

Windshield Auto Glass

Sometimes, windshield repair is no longer enough and you just have to go for total replacement. If you ever need to have windshield replacement or any other auto glass installation, you will have to choose from three types of car glass. There is dealer glass, original equipment manufactured (OEM) distributor glass and aftermarket glass.

Dealer glass is the most expensive type of car glass. This is what you get from the authorized car dealership of your automobile brand. It is expensive because it is made by the exact same manufacturer that produced your vehicle’s original car glass and it usually bears the stamp of your car brand. Those who just need to have everything branded will not go for anything less than dealer glass.

Original equipment manufactured distributor car glass means original equipment manufactured car glass. It is identical to dealer glass and has exactly the same specifications, including thickness, color, durability, size and shape. The only difference is that it is made by a different manufacturer.

Manufacturers of original equipment manufactured car glass are contracted by the different car brands and are authorized to produce car glass to those exact specifications. Most are well-respected in the industry and their product is recognized as being of equal quality as dealer glass. Among the top OEM manufacturers are Pilkington, Pittsburg Plate Glass (PPG), Carlite, Ford, Safeguard/Mopar, Asahi, AP Tech, Triplex, Sekurit, Sicursiv, Scanex, Crinamex and Guardian. Keep the list as a handy reference for when you need to check your car glass choices against them.

There may be some unscrupulous OEM manufacturers, though. Be careful of claims that the glass is “from an OEM manufacturer”. Unless the glass itself is described as OEM glass, it may be substandard glass which just happened to be produced by an OEM manufacturer.

Aftermarket car glass, also called original equipment equivalent (OEE) car glass, is manufactured by companies who are not legally authorized to make car glass to the exact specifications copyrighted and licensed to car brands. Aftermarket car glass, therefore, has specifications different from your car’s original glass. This may include variations in thickness and quality. Of course, it does not have the same guarantees as dealer glass or original equipment manufactured glass, and may have imperfect fit, leakage, optical distortion, low solar performance and wind noise.

Read more…

Purchase Used Car

Buying a used car is a bit trickier than buying a new car although you can follow most of the same guidelines for both.

First, know what car you have in mind. Research the car. There is a wealth of information online. Check the car manufacturers web site, consumer reports and the edmunds.com. web site. Know the approximate value of the car before you head out to the dealer. Go to your bank or to your credit union before you go shopping and see how much money they’ll be able to lend you on a used car. This way you’ll have a much better idea what you can realistically spend.

Realize that there are many different models of the same car. You may not find exactly the car with all the extras you want, or the exact color, but you may find something close that is a great deal.

Most dealers are upright and honest when selling used cars. They offer limited warranties with them. In the case of luxury end cars a lot of them still have warranties in effect when you purchase them.

If you are buying from a private seller ask to see service records. Go online and order a carfax car history report. Find out if the car will be sold “as is” or already state inspected. When you are serious about a used car make sure that you have time to take the car to your mechanic for him to give the car the once over, especially if it’s being sold “as is”. You don’t need to find out after the fact that it needs many more repairs than you thought. You can’t tell just by a visual inspection.

The cosmetics of the car are an important factor in determining it’s value. Cars are generally rated as being in good, fair or excellent condition. However, especially when purchasing from a private seller you’ll find that these ratings vary, sometimes greatly.

Whatever you do, don’t let anyone pressure you into making a quick decision, especially a private seller. If you hear something like “I already have someone else who’s willing to give me a down payment” let the car go. Stick to your guns, and your budget. If you don’t get this car it wasn’t meant to be and there will always be another, and better one.

By : Tim Henry

Find Car Parts

For the recreational car hobbyist, there are few better places to buy parts than on eBay. Think of it like this: if an auto parts swap meet had a child with Godzilla then eBay Motors would be their offspring. Here are the reasons why the Internet is the best place to buy parts:

1. Convenience: Thanks to the Internet, people can buy things online when they want and where they want (at work, in the comfort of their home, wherever) and they don’t have to wait any longer for the first Saturday of the month when the swap meet happens.
2. Quality assurance: Which is better: car parts that can be had really, really cheap on eBay, and other such sites, or haggling over a part by some fast-talking guy who knows there’s something wrong with the part but won’t budge on price?
3. Lots of choice: You may not get the price you want at the swap meet, but you need the part, so you’re willing to spend a little more for it. The great thing about eBay is that you can pass on the stuff you don’t like because you know something similar will probably come along shortly.
4. Price: At the swap meet you can barter back and forth, but it involves some give and take on both sides. Neither of you end up with the dollar figure you want. On eBay, though, you can set your price. If you don’t get it at that price, you can revisit your bid, but if you ride the auction till the end and bid just a dollar over the last bid, you’ll have a great chance of winning the bid at a price you’ll be happy with.
5. Background check: EBay has a feedback rating which allows you to check up on how well the seller has lived up to their word. But at the swap meet, all you have to go on is your gut instinct when you’re face to face with the guy who’s trying to push his parts on you.
6. Pay any way: Many sellers on eBay, though PayPal, accept checks, money orders, and credit cards. At the swap meet you’re either exchanging parts or cash. Paying for parts with a credit card lets you put off the payment until it’s convenient for you.
7. Warranty: On eBay, you actually get a warranty when you buy products from them. The warranty is offered by eBay, and your credit card has a “chargeback” option, too, to protect you from getting ripped off. Was there a warranty at the last swap meet you were at?

EBay Motors is a great place to find cheap car parts. The prices and convenience is unbeatable. Forget those old swap meets, stay home, stay in your pajamas, and click for more convenience and savings.

By : Jeff Lakie

Body Shop Repair

Having been involved in an accident when my truck was only three months old, and then having re-painting done while restoring a ten year old vehicle, I’ve had some experience with body repair shops.

There are different types of body shops out there as we’re all not looking for the same quality of work. The first rule I’ll give you is that you get what you pay for. If you want to pay $599.00 to have your entire car painted, that’s fine. It may be a huge improvement over how your car looked initially, but it wouldn’t have suited me in either case mentioned above. I wanted that three month old truck to look like it looked the day I purchased it, and the paint on the hood of that ten year old sports car had to match the rest of the car perfectly.

The best way to find a body repair shop is the probably the same way you found your auto mechanic, word of mouth. Talk with friends and work associates, ask your mechanic. Talk to your neighbors and get their opinions. Everyone knows someone who’s had a good, or bad experience. Listen when people talk about their cars and experiences they’ve had. I called the dealership where I had purchased my truck for a referral.

When you think that you’ve narrowed it down to a particular shop, check with the Better Business Bureau to see if any complaints have been lodged. Remember that you may find they have a few, but no business can keep everyone happy. Talk with the shop manager if you have any questions or concerns.

Take a look around the shop. Is is kept clean? It won’t be sparkling clean due to the type of work, but you shouldn’t see dust and filth and chemicals spilled on floors.

Ask to see their work. They should have before and after pictures of their work and will also have cars they are currently working on. Do they have letters of recommendation? A lot of business keep letters from happy customers.

Buying used car

There are many people out there who want to buy a used car. Why don’t they just buy a new car? The answer is simple. Many people simply can’t afford to buy a new car, so they must buy a used car. But before you go out to buy a used car, there are some things you should take into consideration.

First off, when you buy a new car you are the only owner of the car. This means you know where the car has been and you know it is in tip top condition. You also get a warranty on the car. But when you buy a used car, you have no idea where the car has been or what on earth has happened to it. The car could’ve been in a terrible accident for all you know. Also, when you buy a used car, you probably won’t get a warranty… unless if you buy a used car at a reputable dealership.

It is safer to buy a used car from a dealership, not from a newspaper ad. You also need to make sure you buy a used car from a reputable dealership. Some used car dealers are just plain sleezeballs. To be even safer, make sure when you buy a used car that the vehicle is Carfax certified. If the dealer won’t provide you with this information, then there is probably a problem with the vehicle in question. Carfax is a free service that provides you information on a cars damage history, if any. You can check the Carfax report online for free, you just need the vehicles VIN number (vehicle identification number). Also, if you buy a used car “as is” you may be stuck with a lemon. Try to get a warranty on the vehicle you purchase as an added safety net.

The next tip before you buy a used car is to get your credit checked. If you are going to finance the vehicle, you better hope you don’t have any blemishes on your credit report. Used car dealers make more money when you finance a car. When you buy a used car, you want to be sure you get the best APR (annual percentage rate) available. If it is too high, then try getting your loan from a bank. They may provide you with a better rate so you may then buy a used car.

Hopefully, when you go to buy a used car you will have a pleasant experience. Not all used cars are bad and not all car dealers are sleezeballs. Alas, an awful lot of them are so be careful. With some street smarts and a little bit of patience, you can end up with an excellent used car that will last you many years.

By : Jay Moncliff

Buying a new car

Car buying is not a task to be taken lightly. The cost of a new car equals almost what my parents paid for their first home. It’s imperative to do behind the scenes research to ensure you get a great deal.

Do not be in a hurry. Car dealers can detect the scent of desperation a mile away! If you are totally without transportation, rent a vehicle until you find the right car. If you rush your purchase, you will usually end up on the bad end of the deal.

You can uncover the typical retail cost of a specific make and model right on the internet. With a little extra research, you can discover the wholesale cost as well. These two pieces of information give you an edge when it comes to negotiation.

It’s best to work toward a win-win situation with the car salesperson. They need to make some money on the deal, and you want to pay a fair price. You can often negotiate a price that is $500 above dealer cost, or about 20% off the sticker price. Make sure you take your calculator with you when car hunting.

You can often order a car with *custom* option choices. This could save you hundreds of dollars. You might wait a couple of weeks, but why pay for options that you do not need?

Always check with the dealership to see if you can return the car if you do not like it. Many dealerships now offer this option. Some dealerships will give you a three day trial period in which to try the car.

It is a good idea to wait until the end of the month to go car hunting. Salespersons who want to meet a certain quota will be eager to strike a deal.

Knowing the value of your old car makes it easier to negotiate a better price for it. Try not to talk about a trade-in possibility until you get a purchase price. Sometimes this is difficult, as most salespeople will ask upfront about a trade in.

I took my car to one lot, and was told the trade in value was $1,200. Another dealership said they would give me $3,500 for the same car! So do your research to make sure you receive a fair price on your used vehicle. Stick to your guns when it comes to getting the value of your trade-in, especially if you’ve had your car serviced regularly.

A service contract will likely be brought into the negotiation. Most consumer information shows no need to buy an extra contract on a new car, as it’s not likely a problem will occur during the first months of use.

Whatever you do, always read the fine print of any contract before signing it. Ask questions about what certain phrases mean if and when you do not understand something.

Also, just because a car is brand new doesn’t mean you should buy it without asking questions. New cars can land in the lemon category as well as used ones. Keep on your toes during the negotiation process. You will enjoy both getting a new car, AND creating a win-win situation for yourself and the dealer.

By: Tom McKnight

Buying New Car vs Used Car

New vs used. Which car is right for you? Consider the following.

Owning a brand new car is exciting. But financially speaking, it makes more sense to buy a used car. As soon as you drive a new car off the lot, it loses a great portion of its value. This is because your car is no longer “new”.

New cars lose about 40% of their value within 3 years, then depreciation starts to slow down. Why not buy a used car and allow someone else to take that depreciation hit?

The previous owner will have absorbed the steepest part of the depreciation cycle. At that point the costs of owning and operating the car will be reduced. The money you save on depreciation will surely go a long way.

Another benefit of buying used is lower cost. By buying used you pay less. You will also save on financing costs, insurance premiums, registration and licensing fees. You don’t have to worry about paying sales tax.

As with everything else there are a few downsides to buying a used car. There are greater chances for costly unwarranted repairs. You may very soon have to do major maintenance on your car, including replacing tires, battery, brakes, muffler, and perhaps even the transmission.

A used car is usually less reliable. You don’t know exactly what you’re getting into and how the previous owner treated the car. However, every situation is different and some used models may actually be far more reliable than some new ones.

If you can pay cash, go the new car way. Enjoy the feeling of knowing you’re the original owner of a new car in mint condition. Nothing can replace that feeling.

Otherwise do not hang your hat higher than you can reach. Practice financial prudence. Save your money and comfort yourself knowing that one day you will be able to afford that dream car. One day when money is no object.